A trip back home is synonymous to meeting relatives and a gastronomical treat that is limited only by your own will power. Our last trip home was essentially that.
While in Kolkata, we spent a weekend at Maithan (or Maithon). With an open mind and no expectations, we set out on a train journey to Kumardhobi, followed by a 25-minutes autorickshaw ride to Maithan. The first half of the auto ride was bumpy and gave you a quick glimpse of rural India. It transformed almost seamlessly into one of the finer roads in India. Soon, we were on the Damodar Valley Dam which is built on the Barakar river, a tributary of the Damodar river.
We stayed in ‘Mazumdar Niwas’ a guest house for DVC (Damodar Valley Corp.) guests. The guest house is in a small island in the lake which is formed as a result of the dam. A short walkway connects the guest house to the mainland. The view from the guest house is nothing less than spectacular and undoubtedly the best in Maithan.
Maithan means (Mai-Than or Ma ka Than or Mother’s abode). It is in Jharkhand and borders West Bengal. It’s a very popular picnic spot for people living in nearby areas. One can spot them from a distance as you see and hear bus loads of people and blaring music from time to time. Unfortunately, the wastes that are left behind after these picnics, ruin the otherwise beautiful neighborhood. For more information on Maithan, you can visit here or here.
Maithan is a very small place and a weekend is sufficient to do any sight seeing here. I highly recommend a 2-hour boat ride in the lake. The best time to go is around 3pm in order to witness the brilliant colors of the sky as the sun sets over the lake.
Our daily meals were very simple, mostly at the guest house or at a nearby hotel. There isn’t much to mention in that respect, except of course, one place: the inspiration behind today’s post.
The pakoras or fritters (more about Pakora here) made by a small family-run shop, located at the main entrance of Mazumdar Niwas are simply sensational ! The place is run by a very humble gentleman, Mr. Chitto Ranjan Debnath, together with his wife and their son. You will find a variety of pakoras made with onions, cottage cheese and potatoes, amongst other things. I fell in love with these pakoras at the first bite – perfectly soft in the inside and crisp on the outside. Mrs. Debnath kneads the dough with her magical fingers and Mr. Debnath fries them into a golden crisp texture – creating something totally extraordinary! Their warm hospitality only contributes to making this experience a memorable one.
I was so inspired by it that ever since that trip, I have tried to make pakoras in many different ways at home. Of course, to have the best, you need to visit Mr. Debnath’s shop in Maithan 🙂
Pakoras with a unique blend of Indian and South-East Asian flavors – Pakoras flavored with laksa leaves (Daun Laksa or Rau Ram or Polygonum Odoratum).
Laksa leaves are used as garnish for Laksa, a very popular Singapore noodles. These herbs are also eaten fresh in some Vietnamese and Thai salads and used to flavour soups and stir fries. Laksa leaves have a penetrating smell with a citrus note and a refreshing, hot, biting, peppery after taste. In my opinion, fresh laksa leaves have an uncanny similarity in taste to Paan or betel leaves.
Laksa leaves and Spinach Pakoras Recipe:
Though the Debnath family shop served it with a garlic chutney, I enjoy these pakoras with a spicy Coriander & Mint chutney.
To print the Pakora recipe, click here.
Makes about 40 bite-sized pakoras.
Besan (Gram flour): ¾ cup
Baking powder: 1/8th tsp
Turmeric: ¼ tsp
Chilli powder: ¼ tsp
Salt: ½ tsp regular salt
Black Salt: ¼ tsp
Aamchoor powder (Dried Mango Powder): 1 tsp (Available in Asian/Indian stores)
Water: 2 tbsp
Onion: 1 ½ medium sized, thinly sliced
Ginger: 2 tsp, grated
Garlic: 1 clove grated (equivalent to 1 tsp of grated garlic)
Green chillies: 2-3 finely chopped
Spinach leaves: 1 cup, finely shredded
Fresh Laksa Leaves: ½ cup, finely shredded
Mustard Oil: 1 tbsp for mixing with the batter
Regular oil for deep frying
Chat Masala for sprinkling once the pakoras are fried – a pinch for every batch of 10-15 pakoras (optional)
How I did it:
- Sieve Besan and Baking powder together.
- Add all the ingredients in a bowl except the oil for frying and chat masala.
- Combine all the ingredients together using your fingers. The batter should be sticky enough so that it does not crumble while deep frying later.
- Let the mixture sit for 15 mins to let the baking powder do it’s job.
- Heat sufficient oil in a deep wok or kadhai. Check if the oil is hot by dropping 1 tsp of the batter in the hot oil. If the batter starts sizzling instantly, the oil is hot and ready. Taste it to make sure the seasoning is adequate and per your liking.
- Use approximately 1 tsp of batter to make the pakoras. Make them in batches of 10 or more depending on the size of the wok / kadhai used.
- You can either use 2 tsps to give the batter a round shape or the tip of your fingers to drop the pakoras in the hot oil. The point to remember is each pakora will use roughly 1 tsp of batter.
- Fry on medium-low heat taking care that the batter is reddish brown but not burnt. Sprinkle a pinch of chat masala over a batch of 10-15 pakoras. (I forgot to do it) Serve immediately.
- Best enjoyed on a rainy afternoon.. With coriander and mint chutney and a hot cup of tea.
Variations: You can also make these pakoras by omitting the laksa leaves, if you can’t find them and increase the shredded spinach to 1 ½ cups.
Alternatively, omit the Spinach completely by increasing the proportion of onions (use 2 medium sized) with the same proportion of Laksa leaves
Coriander and Mint Chutney Recipe:
To print this recipe, click here.
Makes 3/4 cup Chutney
Fresh Coriander: 1 and ½ cup of roughly chopped coriander leaves. Remove roots and stem.
Mint leaves: 1/2 cup. Pluck mint leaves from the stem. Discard stalk. Use the leaves only.
Ginger: 1” pc
Garlic: 1 clove
Green chillies: 2-3
Mustard oil: 1 ½ tbsp
Water: 2 tbsp
Salt: ½ tsp
Black salt: ¼ tsp
Lemon juice: 1 tbsp
How I did it:
- Blend all the ingredients listed above under heading “For blending” until a thick and uniform paste is formed.
- Take it out in a bowl and add the “for seasoning” ingredients listed above.
- Combine thoroughly with a spoon.
- Check for salt / sour taste and adjust as per your liking.
This chutney tastes best when fresh or a maximum of 2-3 days. Make in small batches to always enjoy this chutney at it’s best.
22 thoughts on “Maithan : the birth of Laksa leaves Pakoras with Spicy Coriander and Mint Chutney”
You make me hungry every single time!!! Sharon
thank you Sharon 🙂
Ms. V – ek plate laksa pakora and khoob saari chutney idhar ke liye…. jaldi se garma garam dena 🙂
Nice pics… love the green chutney….
zaroor 🙂 come over anytime 🙂
Lovely photos and this looks delicious. What is a good substitute for laksa leaves? I might just have to make these with only the spinach.
I didn’t realise that the laksa is actually a leaf. I have had many a laksa noodle in Singapore.
I just bought mustard oil for the first time.
Thanks. The laksa leaves have a unique flavor so I don’t know if you can substitute it with anything else. You can try it without the laksa leaves. the taste will be different but that’s the usual way my mom makes it… and it’s yummy too 🙂
I might just go on a quest for laksa! I always thought that the laksa’s characteristics were the coconut milk. I feel like I have been let in on a secret.
I will have a go at making the spinach version.
It seems so delicious, I can almost taste it!
thank you! 🙂
pakora and chutney looks wonderful lovely pictures
Such lovely photos .. wish they were not in collage though. Beautiful gorgeous clicks 🙂
As for the pakora .. what can I say .. I love them all the time. And this version sounds delicious!
Thanks Kankana 🙂 I wanted to put all the photos individually but the post was becoming sooo long. In hindsight, I probably should have separated the two (Maithan & the Pakoras) in order to give beautiful Maithan its due space.. Still learning I guess:)
I put the individual photos in Flickr.
What beautiful landscapes! That is definitely a great place.
Wonderful food too! I’m drooling.
thank you Rosa 🙂 Nice to hear from you.
such gorgeous pictures! and the pakoras look fantastic.
We just launched http://www.veganchutney.com/, a photo gallery for indian vegan food. Do drop by to submit your indian and vegan recipes!
Hmm…clicked to read this post because of Maithan. The neighbor I was talking about was in Dhanbad. We lived there for 6 years at CFRI campus. Maithan was our winter picnic spot 🙂 A place to get great Galda chingri.
Pakora pictures are great. And who doesn’t love pakoras 🙂
Hi Sangeeta, It was my first time to Maithan and it’s like a hidden gem! Such a beautiful place! Where are you now? If you go there again, u should have those famous pakoras.. i miss them!:(